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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.